Jaymi is your go-to-girl regarding everything beauty. She is a qualified Beauty Therapist with 6 years experience specialising in Skin Therapies.
Hello my beauties,
I am completely passionate about the Beauty Industry and cannot wait to share with you all my secrets!
I will discuss here the most common problems I find as a Beauty Therapist, give you a better understanding of how the skin works as well as all my tips and tricks to give you the natural glow that everyone deserves..
Feel free to ask any questions at all, and I am more than happy to answer them for you below my Blog topics..
Keep shining xx
Jaymi
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There is so much to consider when it comes to beauty preparations before your wedding. If you ever have any questions your therapist is only a phone call away!
Happy planning,
Your Skin Care Guru ;)
Contact Jaymi at the Natural Beauty Bar for help on your wedding preparations
(02) 4721-8880
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Issue Five
This is your beauty dictionary explaining most of the current "popular" treatments in the industry that you will regularly see popping up everywhere.
The beauty world is a vast place full of different treatments and products but when push comes to shove what really is what and what the heck does everything do..?
Microdermabrasion Facials
ALWAYS confused with a 'Dermabrasion' treatment. An anti-ageing facial designed to refine the skin. Fantastic for reducing pigmentation, fine lines, uneven skin tone, open pores and giving the skin a "glow".
This machine works either by the hand piece shooting out tiny crystals onto small sections of the skin or lightly going over the skin with a diamond head. What this action does is causing microscopic trauma to the skin, therefor making it go into repair mode, which increases the cellular turnover by stimulating the metabolism of the cells. It is done with minimal discomfort and no down time, making it the perfect treatment to have in your lunch break.
Procedure: Generally starts with a double cleanse and tone to prepare and clean the skin, followed by some lymphatic drainage using just the suction on the machine (each machine obviously differs and may not have this option). Your therapist will then work on small sections of the face with the crystals or diamond head. After I prefer putting a mask onto the skin in my treatments, either a calming hydrating mask or anti-ageing mask. I feel this is necessary because we have done a deep exfoliation and the skin will feel tight and needs nourishment, although some salons will not add a mask for a cheaper alternative, but at the end of the day you get what you pay for.
Duration: 30-60 minute facial
Recommended treatments: For a fresh glow before an event one facial is fine. For noticeable results most salons offer a course of 5 with 6th free.
Skin Type: Any type of skin except someone who is prone to redness and rosacea.
Fraxel Laser Rejuvenation
Fraxel laser therapy is a non-invasive treatment designed to lessen the effects of ageing and slow the process down. The machines hand piece produces thousands of individual columns of light which when placed onto the skin penetrates deep within the top layers of the skin. This action stimulates the collage within the skin and resurfaces the skins top layer. The skin can appear red with an almost sun burnt appearance for 1-3 days depending on the type of skin being treated.
Procedure: The Fraxel laser is rolled several times across the entire area it is treating. Topical anaesthetic is applied before the procedure plus cold air is used during it to minimise discomfort. Afterwards, cold compresses are applied to cool the skin. There is no skin breakage or burning – the skin remains dry. A sunscreen and a post-laser lotion are applied and often a dry, mineral powder camouflage make-up is used to cover the resulting redness. Most people feel comfortable travelling home by public transport.(The Facial Rejuvenation clinic)
Duration: Usually between 15-45 minutes depending on the area being treated.
Recommended Treatments: Clients will generally see results from 1-5 treatments depending on the particular concern.
Skin Types: Works wonders for Fine lines, wrinkles, uneven skin tone, open pores, redness, active acne, pigmentation, acne scars, sun damage and ageing skin.
Botox
A very popular anti ageing treatment available in most salons across the world. Botox is actually a drug made from the bacteria that is also responsible for making us get food poisoning, Clostridium botulinum. This treatment works by injecting botox into the skin targeting particular muscles, which causes these muscles to become paralyzed. This is why it is such an effective anti ageing treatment as this motion irons out wrinkles and halts lines by limiting the muscle movement therefor reducing crinkling of the skin.
Procedure: Usually completed by a Dr or Nurse trained in the area. Practitioner injects a small amount of botox into the specific area. As the botox starts working it blocks the nerve signals to the muscles under the skin. Skin may appear slightly red and injection site slightly sore, but nothing that wont go away in a day or two. Treatment usually starts to work after a day but can take up to a week to notice a difference.
Duration: Generally takes from 5-40 minutes depending on the area being treated.
Price Guide: Varies from $60- $800+
Recommended Treatments: Every 3-6 months.
Skin Types: Any type. Great for frown lines, and temporary relief of wrinkles.
Restylane
Restylane is considered a "filler" and does not affect facial movement. Restylane is a clear gel that is injected into the skin, most commonly the lips, to created a fuller, plump appearance. It is made from Hyaluronic Acid, a natural sugar compound similar to that which is made naturally in the human body.
Procedure: Always administered by a Dr or a qualified Nurse, and most times with a local anesthesia. The Restylane filler is then injected beneath the skin. Hyaluronic acid in the filler adheres to the skin as the water contained in the acid helps to retain volume under the skin's surface. The acid acts as a magnet for water, which helps to preserve the renewed volume of the skin. Swelling is completely normal after this type of procedure and results will be fully evident after a week.
Price Guide: $150- $800+ (Lips are generally $350-$600)
Recommended Treatments: Long lasting and only every 6- 12 months.
Skin Types: Any type: Great for filling the areas in the above photo.
When considering any type of the above treatments I do recommend that you really shop around for an experienced Beauty Therapist, D.R and Nurse. Cheap is never necessarily the best, and at the end of the day you do get what you pay for.
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The diagnosis of Acne is thrown around a little to freely these days. As soon as one gets a couple of pimples it's off to the D.r for a prescription of the harsh stuff before even consulting your Beauty Therapist. NO WONDER THE WHOLE WORLD "HAS ACNE"!
The most common skin complaint I am faced with by my clients are their concern for breaks outs and pimples. Lets outline here what the difference between a hormonal "time of the month" breakout is and a severe case of acne, which usually requires a topical ointment or even oral medication.
The difference between a common break out and the types of acne can be slight to huge.
If you suffer from the odd breakout every now and then, you do not have a severe case of acne.
What is a pimple?
Your skin is covered in tiny little pores. When these pores become blocked with skin cells, sebum and hair can clump together into a plug, this plug gets infected with bacteria, resulting in a swelling, which results in a developing pimple.
Types of pimples:
Whiteheads - remain under the skin (closed comedo) and are very small, appear as small white dots.
Blackheads - clearly visible, they are black and appear on the surface of the skin (open comedo). They are open follicles which as usually filled with skin debris, bacteria and oil (sebum).
Papules - visible on the surface of the skin. They are small bumps, usually pink.
Pustules - clearly visible on the surface of the skin. They are red at their base and have pus at the top.
Nobules - clearly visible on the surface of the skin. They are large, solid pimples. They are painful and are embedded deep in the skin, usually referred to as a "blind pimple".
Cysts - clearly visible on the surface of the skin. They are painful, and are filled with pus. Cysts can easily cause scars.
Types of Acne
Acne Vulgaris: Most common type of acne which includes presence of pustules, whiteheads and blackheads. In more severe cases of acne vulgaris you may find cysts and nodules.
Acne Rosacea: Often confused with acne vulagaris due to the appearance of the spots, they are very similar. However rosacea tends to found in people over the age of 30 and will appear as a rash on the forehead, chin, cheeks or nose.
Severe Acne: Extremely uncommon and very damaging to those who experience it. A very serious case of Acne Vulgaris, and usually spreads over an entire area of the face, neck, chest or back. The areas are extremely inflamed and painful, with large cysts. A doctor or dermatologist needs to be seen.
What causes Acne?
There isn't one specific cause of acne. Research shows that in some cases it can be from a rise in Androgen levels in the body, when you face your adolescent years, which makes the oil glands under your skin grow and produce more oil, excess oil can break down cellular walls in the skin which can cause bacteria to grow.
Acne can also be genetic, or can be present for the first time during and after pregnancy due to hormonal changes. Heavy makeups and cosmetics can also bring on acne in an individual who is suspect to acne.
Don't STRESS you can treat pimples and acne!
Pimples and spots can be treated quite easily with a good solid home care regime. If you are concerned only with occasional breakouts then once your home care is perfect you will only need facials ever 1-2 months.
If you have a mild case of acne which has been diagnosed professionally then a series of facials with light AHA peels or enzyme peels will be necessary every couple of weeks, as well as home care.
For the severe cases, your therapist will normally refer you to a Doctor or Dermatologist. In this instance, you will be either given a topical ointment or a script of Roaccutane.
If you are having trouble with your skin and are unsure about breakouts and acne, do not hesitate to ask. As Beauty Therapists we are here to help YOU!
Your Skin Care Guru :)
XX
Contact Jaymi at Natural Beauty Bar regarding Treatments for breakouts and Acne on (02) 4721 8880
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It seems to be the running trend in the neighborhood of late, using Solarium's is the "cool" thing to do. What is more alarming is the fact that people know how unsafe they are but still continue to bake themselves for minutes on end..why?
I wish someone would honestly tell me because I will never understand, nor ever try to actually..
I have always despised the use of solariums but the reason for my instant upheaval was because of a post I had actually seen via social media the other week. A company uploaded a photo of their machine and quoted "Overcast outside? Not at M______. Get your tan on!"
Of course me being the one who can never hold her tongue, piped up and said "How safe are these?".
After reading that I was on a rampage, an anger fueled information finding quest that led me back to a page I had "Liked" a while ago called Sunbed Ban. This is a non-profit organisation that raises the awareness of the dangers of tanning in solariums, and I urge you all to check out this worthwhile cause.
One of the most shocking discoveries I found on the sunbedban.com was that out of the 122 businesses in NSW that offer solarium tanning services, 54 of those businesses are Beauty salons and hairdressers! Out of all trades I thought mine would be the least on the list. I am so totally shocked that a beauty therapist could even promote such a cancer causing type of machine.. Clearly its a revenue raiser, because I can't see any other benefit of having that in a salon.
Now lets get down to the gritty stuff.
Firstly, I will define the difference between UVA and UVB rays.
UVA Rays- Ultraviolet-A rays are the most common rays emitted from sun beds. They are the rays that penetrate deeply into the skin (the dermis) causing genetic damage to cells, photo-ageing (wrinkling, blotchiness, pigmentation), reduces the collagen level in the skin, so pretty much causing premature ageing. It was once thought that UVB rays were responsible for causing skin cancers but research has now found that BOTH UVA and UVB rays are to blame.
UVB Rays- Ultraviolet-B rays penetrate into the epidermis (top layer of the skin) causing damage to the cells. UVB is responsible for sunburn - a significant risk factor for skin cancer, especially melanoma.
Now what do solarium's actually do and what are their effect on the skin?
Solarium's are electronic units that emit UV Rays (both UVA and UVB) which people use to tan their skin. It has been proven that some solariums can emit UV up to 5 times as strong as the midday summer sun.
In the outer most top layer of the skin (The Epidermis) there is a type of cell called a "Melanocyte". This cell is responsible for the pigment called Melanin which is what makes the skin turn brown.
When the skin starts to brown this is a sign that it has received too much UV Radiation, as this is the skins defense mechanism to damage. The browner you are from tanning the more the body is trying to protect itself. Melanomas actually develop from mutant Melanocyte cells.
What to look for when you have a suspicious spot?
There are 3 main types of skin cancers:
Melanoma is the least common skin cancer but it is the most serious because it can spread to other parts of the body. If found early, melanoma is often curable. If detected later, it may have grown down deeper into the dermis where it may spread.
The diagram below is a perfect example to show you the damaging effects a Melanoma can have on the skin and the body..
What may look like a small dot on the surface can actually spread deep within the skin. Cancerous cells branch out like trees, their roots spreading deeper and deeper.
These two women below are examples of the damage that an Malignant skin cancer can cause.
Better Health
Rotation Advancement Cheek Malignant Melanoma
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Issue Two
Acidic Boundaries Written By Jaymi Caldwell
Let's get one thing straight first and foremost, using acids in skin care is NOT a bad thing (before some jump to the guns). I feel as many of my colleagues agree with me too, that using acids in skin care is very much a short term investment, and that is the point I am making.
Before I go on, I think to show you the damaging effects of over use of these products you must look below at my before photos from when I used to be an "Acid User".
We all know that everything in moderation is good for you, but when over used above is what can happen. This is how my skin reacted, but everyone is different as this is quite an extreme case. I used to cover this with makeup everyday for about 6 months but this was my skin at it's very worse.
This happened because I had been using a skin care product for a while and became bored (like most women) so I was chopping and changing what brand I was using which resulted in completely stripping my skin from all its natural oils. When skin becomes damaged it goes into an inflammatory response, which is the skins natural healing cycle, very stupidly I kept using acids, which brings me back to my point of keeping your relationship with acids a short term thing.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with using a product line that is formulated using Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA's), for a short period of time. AHA's work mainly as an exfoliant. They cause the cells of the epidermis to become "unglued" allowing the dead skin cells to slough off, making room for regrowth of new skin. This results in a fresh, glowing appearance, perfect for before an event or special occasion. Most would recommend using a fairly neutral home care product along side an acid treatment like a Glycolic Peel, as the skin requires nourishment in the coming weeks after. When you don't nourish the skin with essential oils like Jojoba, Rosehip, avocado etc that is when damage to the skin can become evident.
Like any ingredient in skin care, everything has it's pro's and con's.
Pro's: For use no longer than 6 months
-The good thing is these acids are naturally derived:
Glycolic acid - sugar cane. Lactic acid - milk. Malic acid - apples and pears. Citric acid - oranges and lemons. Tartaric acid - grapes.
-May stimulate the production of collagen and elastin.
-Reported to improve wrinkling, roughness, and mottled pigmentation of photoageing skin after months of daily application.
Con's: After prolonged use from 6 months and over
-Symptoms of irritation which include redness, burning, itching, pain, and possibly scarring.
-Is shown to reverse the effects of photo-ageing, but at the same time makes skin more susceptible to photo-ageing by increasing sun sensitivity up to 50%. Must invest in a good sunscreen that has UVA and UVB protection.
-Many women can become addicted to acids as the initial result of a fresh, tight, glowing skin can be amazing. But over time if you are not nourishing the skin, the effects can be horrendous.
Which I and many other women have found out the hard way.
I started using Dr Spiller at the end of October 2011, once I had enough of being an embarrassing beauty therapist with bad skin.
My after photos say it all really. No words can describe the change my skin went through from the sore, red state it was in to a completely clear skin.
To repair my skin I was using a full home care regime of cleanser, toner, jojoba scrub, mask, serum, eye cream and moisturiser, as well as an enzyme facial in the salon every two weeks until it completely cleared up. Now I have never looked back, and this gives me every reason to be completely confident with the products I use and prescribe in the salon.
In the short of things, I am just warning you to just be aware of what you are using. Listen to your skin, no matter what the promised results are, as what can agree with one person might not happen to agree with you. Use products to their specific directions and suggestions, and if reactions occur like this, PLEASE discontinue use!
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Issue One
Trust Your Therapist and know YOUR Skin Written By Jaymi Caldwell
Hello my beauties,
I am completely passionate about the Beauty Industry and cannot wait to share with you all my secrets!
I will discuss here the most common problems I find as a Beauty Therapist, give you a better understanding of how the skin works as well as all my tips and tricks to give you the natural glow that everyone deserves..
Feel free to ask any questions at all, and I am more than happy to answer them for you below my Blog topics..
Keep shining xx
Jaymi
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Issue Seven
The Great 'Oil' Debate
Written By Jaymi Caldwell
I have always been an advocate for using oils in skincare as many of my clients already know. All the more so after being introduced to Dr Spiller Biocosmetics almost two years ago, to which I have never looked back.
Recently I read an article in an industry Beauty Magazine written by Andrew Christie, outlining the benefits of oil in skin care products. The scientific evidence in this article perfectly explained and reconfirmed my love for these magnificent ingredients, which is why I am going to explain why oil is a crucial park for skin reproduction.
As product consumers we live and breath the idea that oil is "bad" for the skin. The reason for this is because oil is marketed in such a way that we are frightened of products that contain high amounts of it. Constantly we are being sold the oil free products, mattiying foundations, oil control lotions and anything else that will suck out that extra oil from our poor skins.
This is exactly how I explain the scientific theory in the salon to my clients before they have a facial, so lets begin at where it all starts..
Our skin has a protective barrier covering it called the "Acid Mantle". This barrier is primarily made up of oil (sebum), sweat and a natural moisture factor. This natural moisture factor helps bind water from the skin and atmosphere to hydrate and balance the skin, to which the water is then trapped within the skin by the natural oil the skin produces.
Many different factors can contribute to disturbing this barrier and one of the more familiar terms you may of heard referring to this is "stripped" skin. Factors like environmental damage (wind, sun, heat) over using acidic based products and using inappropriate products for your skin type (Anti-bac cleanser for dry skin) can all lead to stripping those natural oils from your skin. The skin's oil barrier makes it near impossible for water based products to penetrate!
The best example of this is salad dressings. Funny but true.
Have you ever mixed a salad dressing and the two oil and water components stay fully mixed?
I don't think so. And if you have this dressing would normally of included some sort of cream or emulsion to bind the two products together, much like 21st century oil based products.
The scientific development of products have come along way since those stodgy, thick and oily creams from the 60's. They are now designed in such a way that the skin doesn't become blocked and it can breath.
When you hear the term referring to products that have a 'Biomimetic' or 'Biocosmetic' approach it means that they have special types of oils that 'mimic' the skins own natural oils, therefor allowing it to function normally.
The skin needs a perfectly balanced amount of oil to remain functioning correctly, and you can get these oils from products that have them incorporated.
If we do not protect the acid mantle by giving it the oil it needs to reproduce and function the skin becomes un-stable and OVER PRODUCES oil. Many clients that haven't been introduced to products that contain oil can generally be quite worried about putting more oil onto their skin, if what they are trying to avoid in the first place is excess oil. The fact of the matter is that the skin in this area is over producing the oil because of the lack of in a persons home care routine. As I said before, once you get the balance right and the oil production in the skin is correctly functioning this oil shine will fix itself!
A few great oils to look out for in your products are;
I have always been an advocate for using oils in skincare as many of my clients already know. All the more so after being introduced to Dr Spiller Biocosmetics almost two years ago, to which I have never looked back.
Recently I read an article in an industry Beauty Magazine written by Andrew Christie, outlining the benefits of oil in skin care products. The scientific evidence in this article perfectly explained and reconfirmed my love for these magnificent ingredients, which is why I am going to explain why oil is a crucial park for skin reproduction.
As product consumers we live and breath the idea that oil is "bad" for the skin. The reason for this is because oil is marketed in such a way that we are frightened of products that contain high amounts of it. Constantly we are being sold the oil free products, mattiying foundations, oil control lotions and anything else that will suck out that extra oil from our poor skins.
This is exactly how I explain the scientific theory in the salon to my clients before they have a facial, so lets begin at where it all starts..
Our skin has a protective barrier covering it called the "Acid Mantle". This barrier is primarily made up of oil (sebum), sweat and a natural moisture factor. This natural moisture factor helps bind water from the skin and atmosphere to hydrate and balance the skin, to which the water is then trapped within the skin by the natural oil the skin produces.
Many different factors can contribute to disturbing this barrier and one of the more familiar terms you may of heard referring to this is "stripped" skin. Factors like environmental damage (wind, sun, heat) over using acidic based products and using inappropriate products for your skin type (Anti-bac cleanser for dry skin) can all lead to stripping those natural oils from your skin. The skin's oil barrier makes it near impossible for water based products to penetrate!
The best example of this is salad dressings. Funny but true.
Have you ever mixed a salad dressing and the two oil and water components stay fully mixed?
I don't think so. And if you have this dressing would normally of included some sort of cream or emulsion to bind the two products together, much like 21st century oil based products.
The scientific development of products have come along way since those stodgy, thick and oily creams from the 60's. They are now designed in such a way that the skin doesn't become blocked and it can breath.
When you hear the term referring to products that have a 'Biomimetic' or 'Biocosmetic' approach it means that they have special types of oils that 'mimic' the skins own natural oils, therefor allowing it to function normally.
The skin needs a perfectly balanced amount of oil to remain functioning correctly, and you can get these oils from products that have them incorporated.
If we do not protect the acid mantle by giving it the oil it needs to reproduce and function the skin becomes un-stable and OVER PRODUCES oil. Many clients that haven't been introduced to products that contain oil can generally be quite worried about putting more oil onto their skin, if what they are trying to avoid in the first place is excess oil. The fact of the matter is that the skin in this area is over producing the oil because of the lack of in a persons home care routine. As I said before, once you get the balance right and the oil production in the skin is correctly functioning this oil shine will fix itself!
A few great oils to look out for in your products are;
- Soybean oil
- Jojoba wax
- Macadamia oil
- Lanolin
- Avocado oil
- Argan Oil
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| Before and after photo of a client of mine who struggled with Eczema all her life. |
Most skin conditions women and men generally have issues with are redness, dryness, product sensitivity and excess oil. All of these concerns focus back to the lack of moisture and oil within the skin. In most cases the skin is crying out for support, especially now we are heading into the colder months. It wants and needs oil to function and repair itself in these harsh conditions!
Try and not be scared about these type of products.The consistency and texture of the creams really do take time to get used to. Give them a go, I assure you they are fantastic! Majority of my clients have changed from a range of different facial ranges to Dr Spiller and they have never looked back!
Lets work with our skin and not against it. After all, we are only given ONE to look after!
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Issue Six
Wedding Day Preparations- The most asked about beauty questions for brides..
Written By Jaymi Caldwell
Weddings are a beautiful time in a women's life that most of us have looked forward to since little girls..but they can also be stressful!
Natural Beauty Bar held our first Bridal VIP High Tea afternoon with great success! I thought it would only be fit to discuss a few things leading up to your big day for all our lovely brides-to-be who couldn't make it to the event.
From a beauty therapists perspective these are the most common questions I am faced with from my brides-to-be.
My eyebrows need a reshape. When is the best time to start to grow out my brows?
Girls! Eyebrows are absolutely crucial to a women's face. If you have had the experience of a poorly shaped eyebrow job or you have just had the same old McDonald's arches for 10 years, you may want to consider growing your shape out. It can take anywhere from 2-12 months before your wedding to get a completely new shape, so please try not to leave it to late!
I can't stress enough about seeing a professional beauty therapist for your eyebrow shaping. Do your research on salons that are known for a good brow wax and shape, not to mention that their hygiene standards are usually a lot better too. Eyebrows generally need shaping every 2-8 weeks, depending on the rate of the hair growth and that also goes for when we are growing the shape out, so no leaving them for 2 months if they start to join in the middle! Your last eyebrow appointment should be at least 2 days before the wedding, to allow for immaculate brows. If your skin is sensitive allow 3 days for the skin the settle.
I want my skin to look flawless. When should I start to get facials?
Hydration, supple skin texture and an even complexion is the most sought after goals for brides. Skin care and facials should be started well in advance before the wedding date. If you have a solid home care regime you will only need to see your beauty therapist once every 4-6 weeks for an in salon facial, because 60% of your skin care results will come from a great home care routine! The skins natural renewal process usually takes 28 days to occur, so it is best to be actually using a product for over a month before you can decide if it is "effective" or not. Tell your therapist exactly what you would like in terms of results, and she will usually be honest in her response if something is achievable or not with the given time frame. If your budget doesn't have room for a facial a month, then get that home care 100% perfect and just book 3 facials consecutively before the wedding date, with the last facial a week to two weeks before.
I really want to have a pre-wedding glow. Do you recommend getting a spray tan or just tanning for a couple of weeks prior?
If your skin tans fairly well when sun baking WITH sunscreen ON, then by all means I will give you permission to bake.. but unlike myself, I could lay in the sun for weeks and actually come out whiter than before I started (I'm Irish). I would personally opt always for a spray tan, although I am slightly bias because I completely think that the tan should very natural and light. You don't want to look back at your wedding album and cringe at what is before you. It is definitely worth booking a couple of trials at your salon of choice. I do recommend more than 1 trial because the chemicals in the skin change, what may come out nicely once could possibly come out slightly darker the next. I would usually start with the medium colour tan, then I can either go lighter or darker depending on what my client likes (each tan is different depending on the salon). Your spray tan should be done either the day before or 2 days prior to the wedding, to allow an even tan with no patches. Less is more ladies, you want to look like yourself on your day, not someone who might resemble you.
Weddings are a beautiful time in a women's life that most of us have looked forward to since little girls..but they can also be stressful!
Natural Beauty Bar held our first Bridal VIP High Tea afternoon with great success! I thought it would only be fit to discuss a few things leading up to your big day for all our lovely brides-to-be who couldn't make it to the event.
From a beauty therapists perspective these are the most common questions I am faced with from my brides-to-be.
.JPG) |
| Actual Client of Jaymi's |
Girls! Eyebrows are absolutely crucial to a women's face. If you have had the experience of a poorly shaped eyebrow job or you have just had the same old McDonald's arches for 10 years, you may want to consider growing your shape out. It can take anywhere from 2-12 months before your wedding to get a completely new shape, so please try not to leave it to late!
I can't stress enough about seeing a professional beauty therapist for your eyebrow shaping. Do your research on salons that are known for a good brow wax and shape, not to mention that their hygiene standards are usually a lot better too. Eyebrows generally need shaping every 2-8 weeks, depending on the rate of the hair growth and that also goes for when we are growing the shape out, so no leaving them for 2 months if they start to join in the middle! Your last eyebrow appointment should be at least 2 days before the wedding, to allow for immaculate brows. If your skin is sensitive allow 3 days for the skin the settle.
 |
| Before and After results with Jaymi |
Hydration, supple skin texture and an even complexion is the most sought after goals for brides. Skin care and facials should be started well in advance before the wedding date. If you have a solid home care regime you will only need to see your beauty therapist once every 4-6 weeks for an in salon facial, because 60% of your skin care results will come from a great home care routine! The skins natural renewal process usually takes 28 days to occur, so it is best to be actually using a product for over a month before you can decide if it is "effective" or not. Tell your therapist exactly what you would like in terms of results, and she will usually be honest in her response if something is achievable or not with the given time frame. If your budget doesn't have room for a facial a month, then get that home care 100% perfect and just book 3 facials consecutively before the wedding date, with the last facial a week to two weeks before.
If your skin tans fairly well when sun baking WITH sunscreen ON, then by all means I will give you permission to bake.. but unlike myself, I could lay in the sun for weeks and actually come out whiter than before I started (I'm Irish). I would personally opt always for a spray tan, although I am slightly bias because I completely think that the tan should very natural and light. You don't want to look back at your wedding album and cringe at what is before you. It is definitely worth booking a couple of trials at your salon of choice. I do recommend more than 1 trial because the chemicals in the skin change, what may come out nicely once could possibly come out slightly darker the next. I would usually start with the medium colour tan, then I can either go lighter or darker depending on what my client likes (each tan is different depending on the salon). Your spray tan should be done either the day before or 2 days prior to the wedding, to allow an even tan with no patches. Less is more ladies, you want to look like yourself on your day, not someone who might resemble you.
There is so much to consider when it comes to beauty preparations before your wedding. If you ever have any questions your therapist is only a phone call away!
Happy planning,
Your Skin Care Guru ;)
Contact Jaymi at the Natural Beauty Bar for help on your wedding preparations
(02) 4721-8880
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Issue Five
Anti-Ageing Treatments- What treatment is what and who can have it..
Written By Jaymi Caldwell
This is your beauty dictionary explaining most of the current "popular" treatments in the industry that you will regularly see popping up everywhere.
The beauty world is a vast place full of different treatments and products but when push comes to shove what really is what and what the heck does everything do..?
Microdermabrasion FacialsALWAYS confused with a 'Dermabrasion' treatment. An anti-ageing facial designed to refine the skin. Fantastic for reducing pigmentation, fine lines, uneven skin tone, open pores and giving the skin a "glow".
This machine works either by the hand piece shooting out tiny crystals onto small sections of the skin or lightly going over the skin with a diamond head. What this action does is causing microscopic trauma to the skin, therefor making it go into repair mode, which increases the cellular turnover by stimulating the metabolism of the cells. It is done with minimal discomfort and no down time, making it the perfect treatment to have in your lunch break.
Procedure: Generally starts with a double cleanse and tone to prepare and clean the skin, followed by some lymphatic drainage using just the suction on the machine (each machine obviously differs and may not have this option). Your therapist will then work on small sections of the face with the crystals or diamond head. After I prefer putting a mask onto the skin in my treatments, either a calming hydrating mask or anti-ageing mask. I feel this is necessary because we have done a deep exfoliation and the skin will feel tight and needs nourishment, although some salons will not add a mask for a cheaper alternative, but at the end of the day you get what you pay for.
Duration: 30-60 minute facial
Recommended treatments: For a fresh glow before an event one facial is fine. For noticeable results most salons offer a course of 5 with 6th free.
Skin Type: Any type of skin except someone who is prone to redness and rosacea.
Fraxel laser therapy is a non-invasive treatment designed to lessen the effects of ageing and slow the process down. The machines hand piece produces thousands of individual columns of light which when placed onto the skin penetrates deep within the top layers of the skin. This action stimulates the collage within the skin and resurfaces the skins top layer. The skin can appear red with an almost sun burnt appearance for 1-3 days depending on the type of skin being treated.
Procedure: The Fraxel laser is rolled several times across the entire area it is treating. Topical anaesthetic is applied before the procedure plus cold air is used during it to minimise discomfort. Afterwards, cold compresses are applied to cool the skin. There is no skin breakage or burning – the skin remains dry. A sunscreen and a post-laser lotion are applied and often a dry, mineral powder camouflage make-up is used to cover the resulting redness. Most people feel comfortable travelling home by public transport.(The Facial Rejuvenation clinic)
Duration: Usually between 15-45 minutes depending on the area being treated.
Recommended Treatments: Clients will generally see results from 1-5 treatments depending on the particular concern.
Skin Types: Works wonders for Fine lines, wrinkles, uneven skin tone, open pores, redness, active acne, pigmentation, acne scars, sun damage and ageing skin.
A very popular anti ageing treatment available in most salons across the world. Botox is actually a drug made from the bacteria that is also responsible for making us get food poisoning, Clostridium botulinum. This treatment works by injecting botox into the skin targeting particular muscles, which causes these muscles to become paralyzed. This is why it is such an effective anti ageing treatment as this motion irons out wrinkles and halts lines by limiting the muscle movement therefor reducing crinkling of the skin.
Procedure: Usually completed by a Dr or Nurse trained in the area. Practitioner injects a small amount of botox into the specific area. As the botox starts working it blocks the nerve signals to the muscles under the skin. Skin may appear slightly red and injection site slightly sore, but nothing that wont go away in a day or two. Treatment usually starts to work after a day but can take up to a week to notice a difference.
Duration: Generally takes from 5-40 minutes depending on the area being treated.
Price Guide: Varies from $60- $800+
Recommended Treatments: Every 3-6 months.
Skin Types: Any type. Great for frown lines, and temporary relief of wrinkles.
Restylane is considered a "filler" and does not affect facial movement. Restylane is a clear gel that is injected into the skin, most commonly the lips, to created a fuller, plump appearance. It is made from Hyaluronic Acid, a natural sugar compound similar to that which is made naturally in the human body.
Procedure: Always administered by a Dr or a qualified Nurse, and most times with a local anesthesia. The Restylane filler is then injected beneath the skin. Hyaluronic acid in the filler adheres to the skin as the water contained in the acid helps to retain volume under the skin's surface. The acid acts as a magnet for water, which helps to preserve the renewed volume of the skin. Swelling is completely normal after this type of procedure and results will be fully evident after a week.
Price Guide: $150- $800+ (Lips are generally $350-$600)
Recommended Treatments: Long lasting and only every 6- 12 months.
Skin Types: Any type: Great for filling the areas in the above photo.
When considering any type of the above treatments I do recommend that you really shop around for an experienced Beauty Therapist, D.R and Nurse. Cheap is never necessarily the best, and at the end of the day you do get what you pay for.
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Issue Four
What is ACNE?- The difference between a common break out and severe acne
Written By Jaymi Caldwell
The diagnosis of Acne is thrown around a little to freely these days. As soon as one gets a couple of pimples it's off to the D.r for a prescription of the harsh stuff before even consulting your Beauty Therapist. NO WONDER THE WHOLE WORLD "HAS ACNE"!
The most common skin complaint I am faced with by my clients are their concern for breaks outs and pimples. Lets outline here what the difference between a hormonal "time of the month" breakout is and a severe case of acne, which usually requires a topical ointment or even oral medication.
The difference between a common break out and the types of acne can be slight to huge.
If you suffer from the odd breakout every now and then, you do not have a severe case of acne.
What is a pimple?
Your skin is covered in tiny little pores. When these pores become blocked with skin cells, sebum and hair can clump together into a plug, this plug gets infected with bacteria, resulting in a swelling, which results in a developing pimple.
Types of pimples:
Whiteheads - remain under the skin (closed comedo) and are very small, appear as small white dots.
Blackheads - clearly visible, they are black and appear on the surface of the skin (open comedo). They are open follicles which as usually filled with skin debris, bacteria and oil (sebum).
Papules - visible on the surface of the skin. They are small bumps, usually pink.
Pustules - clearly visible on the surface of the skin. They are red at their base and have pus at the top.
Nobules - clearly visible on the surface of the skin. They are large, solid pimples. They are painful and are embedded deep in the skin, usually referred to as a "blind pimple".
Cysts - clearly visible on the surface of the skin. They are painful, and are filled with pus. Cysts can easily cause scars.
Types of Acne
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| Mild Acne Vulgaris |
Acne Rosacea: Often confused with acne vulagaris due to the appearance of the spots, they are very similar. However rosacea tends to found in people over the age of 30 and will appear as a rash on the forehead, chin, cheeks or nose.
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| Acne Rosacea |
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| Severe Acne |
What causes Acne?
There isn't one specific cause of acne. Research shows that in some cases it can be from a rise in Androgen levels in the body, when you face your adolescent years, which makes the oil glands under your skin grow and produce more oil, excess oil can break down cellular walls in the skin which can cause bacteria to grow.
Acne can also be genetic, or can be present for the first time during and after pregnancy due to hormonal changes. Heavy makeups and cosmetics can also bring on acne in an individual who is suspect to acne.
Don't STRESS you can treat pimples and acne!
Pimples and spots can be treated quite easily with a good solid home care regime. If you are concerned only with occasional breakouts then once your home care is perfect you will only need facials ever 1-2 months.
If you have a mild case of acne which has been diagnosed professionally then a series of facials with light AHA peels or enzyme peels will be necessary every couple of weeks, as well as home care.
For the severe cases, your therapist will normally refer you to a Doctor or Dermatologist. In this instance, you will be either given a topical ointment or a script of Roaccutane.
If you are having trouble with your skin and are unsure about breakouts and acne, do not hesitate to ask. As Beauty Therapists we are here to help YOU!
Your Skin Care Guru :)
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Contact Jaymi at Natural Beauty Bar regarding Treatments for breakouts and Acne on (02) 4721 8880
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Issue Three
SOLARIUMS- AKA DEATH BEDS
Written By Jaymi Caldwell
WARNING: THE CONTENTS OF THIS ARTICLE ARE GRAPHIC!
This is a topic that I feel needs addressing ASAP, not because of the lack of evidence out there supporting the ban on sunbeds but merely for the lack of common sense for those who still continue to use these death machines.
I wish someone would honestly tell me because I will never understand, nor ever try to actually..
I have always despised the use of solariums but the reason for my instant upheaval was because of a post I had actually seen via social media the other week. A company uploaded a photo of their machine and quoted "Overcast outside? Not at M______. Get your tan on!"
Of course me being the one who can never hold her tongue, piped up and said "How safe are these?".
After reading that I was on a rampage, an anger fueled information finding quest that led me back to a page I had "Liked" a while ago called Sunbed Ban. This is a non-profit organisation that raises the awareness of the dangers of tanning in solariums, and I urge you all to check out this worthwhile cause.
One of the most shocking discoveries I found on the sunbedban.com was that out of the 122 businesses in NSW that offer solarium tanning services, 54 of those businesses are Beauty salons and hairdressers! Out of all trades I thought mine would be the least on the list. I am so totally shocked that a beauty therapist could even promote such a cancer causing type of machine.. Clearly its a revenue raiser, because I can't see any other benefit of having that in a salon.
Now lets get down to the gritty stuff.
Firstly, I will define the difference between UVA and UVB rays.
UVA Rays- Ultraviolet-A rays are the most common rays emitted from sun beds. They are the rays that penetrate deeply into the skin (the dermis) causing genetic damage to cells, photo-ageing (wrinkling, blotchiness, pigmentation), reduces the collagen level in the skin, so pretty much causing premature ageing. It was once thought that UVB rays were responsible for causing skin cancers but research has now found that BOTH UVA and UVB rays are to blame.
UVB Rays- Ultraviolet-B rays penetrate into the epidermis (top layer of the skin) causing damage to the cells. UVB is responsible for sunburn - a significant risk factor for skin cancer, especially melanoma.
Now what do solarium's actually do and what are their effect on the skin?
Solarium's are electronic units that emit UV Rays (both UVA and UVB) which people use to tan their skin. It has been proven that some solariums can emit UV up to 5 times as strong as the midday summer sun.
In the outer most top layer of the skin (The Epidermis) there is a type of cell called a "Melanocyte". This cell is responsible for the pigment called Melanin which is what makes the skin turn brown.
When the skin starts to brown this is a sign that it has received too much UV Radiation, as this is the skins defense mechanism to damage. The browner you are from tanning the more the body is trying to protect itself. Melanomas actually develop from mutant Melanocyte cells.
What to look for when you have a suspicious spot?
There are 3 main types of skin cancers:
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| Click on images to Enlarge |
Melanoma is the least common skin cancer but it is the most serious because it can spread to other parts of the body. If found early, melanoma is often curable. If detected later, it may have grown down deeper into the dermis where it may spread.
The diagram below is a perfect example to show you the damaging effects a Melanoma can have on the skin and the body..
What may look like a small dot on the surface can actually spread deep within the skin. Cancerous cells branch out like trees, their roots spreading deeper and deeper.
Lets not get too afraid of that big yellow thing in the sky just yet though..
Although the threat of UV rays is there on a daily bases, it is still recommended that we receive at least 20 minutes of Vitamin D intake a day. Like I say about a lot of things, EVERYTHING IN MODERATION.
And no this doesn't mean sun baking half naked by the pool, it can mean as little as hanging the washing on the line, washing the car, taking the dog for a walk or if your lucky enough going for a leisurely drive your convertible..all in reason of course. You must wear sunscreen, a hat and sunglasses to protect those bits of your skin that clothes don't necessarily cover.
There are so many options to being brown..personally I would rather fake it then bake it. There are many spray tans out there these days, and most of them organically derived for the people who now want to point the blame somewhere else because they are so guilty of using solariums ;)
Now do you get it? Now do you understand why I am so anti-solarium? Is being a few shades darker really worth your health and your life? I think not.
Stay safe and sun savvy my lovelies!
Your skin care guru :)
P.S Happy New Year!!!
Sources:
Cancer Council Better Health
Rotation Advancement Cheek Malignant Melanoma
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Issue Two
Acidic Boundaries Written By Jaymi Caldwell
Acid Definition: To use, abuse, become highly addictive
"Acid is a low pH solution. The lower the pH or the less diluted the stronger the acid. Low pH substances will harden organic material . When used in skin care preparations, acidic ingredients (e.g. glycol, Alpha Hydroxy, lactic acid) can leave acid residues if overused. Acid can change the natural pH of the skin. When skin cannot regenerate faster than the residue is being deposited and compounded, the result is an alteration of the natural pH of the skin and interferes with the normal functioning of the skin, eventually this can cause damage. " Article on Acids from Esthetician Pharmacology Research InstituteI once was an "Acid User" as I like to call them. Now when I refer to the term "Acid User" I am referring to one whom OVER USES extremely strong acidic based products over a long period of time.
Let's get one thing straight first and foremost, using acids in skin care is NOT a bad thing (before some jump to the guns). I feel as many of my colleagues agree with me too, that using acids in skin care is very much a short term investment, and that is the point I am making.
Before I go on, I think to show you the damaging effects of over use of these products you must look below at my before photos from when I used to be an "Acid User".
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| October 20th 2011 |
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| October 1st 2011 |
We all know that everything in moderation is good for you, but when over used above is what can happen. This is how my skin reacted, but everyone is different as this is quite an extreme case. I used to cover this with makeup everyday for about 6 months but this was my skin at it's very worse.
This happened because I had been using a skin care product for a while and became bored (like most women) so I was chopping and changing what brand I was using which resulted in completely stripping my skin from all its natural oils. When skin becomes damaged it goes into an inflammatory response, which is the skins natural healing cycle, very stupidly I kept using acids, which brings me back to my point of keeping your relationship with acids a short term thing.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with using a product line that is formulated using Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA's), for a short period of time. AHA's work mainly as an exfoliant. They cause the cells of the epidermis to become "unglued" allowing the dead skin cells to slough off, making room for regrowth of new skin. This results in a fresh, glowing appearance, perfect for before an event or special occasion. Most would recommend using a fairly neutral home care product along side an acid treatment like a Glycolic Peel, as the skin requires nourishment in the coming weeks after. When you don't nourish the skin with essential oils like Jojoba, Rosehip, avocado etc that is when damage to the skin can become evident.
Like any ingredient in skin care, everything has it's pro's and con's.
Pro's: For use no longer than 6 months
-The good thing is these acids are naturally derived:
Glycolic acid - sugar cane. Lactic acid - milk. Malic acid - apples and pears. Citric acid - oranges and lemons. Tartaric acid - grapes.
-May stimulate the production of collagen and elastin.
-Reported to improve wrinkling, roughness, and mottled pigmentation of photoageing skin after months of daily application.
Con's: After prolonged use from 6 months and over
-Symptoms of irritation which include redness, burning, itching, pain, and possibly scarring.
-Is shown to reverse the effects of photo-ageing, but at the same time makes skin more susceptible to photo-ageing by increasing sun sensitivity up to 50%. Must invest in a good sunscreen that has UVA and UVB protection.
-Many women can become addicted to acids as the initial result of a fresh, tight, glowing skin can be amazing. But over time if you are not nourishing the skin, the effects can be horrendous.
Which I and many other women have found out the hard way.
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| My skin before and after using DR SPILLER for two months |
My after photos say it all really. No words can describe the change my skin went through from the sore, red state it was in to a completely clear skin.
To repair my skin I was using a full home care regime of cleanser, toner, jojoba scrub, mask, serum, eye cream and moisturiser, as well as an enzyme facial in the salon every two weeks until it completely cleared up. Now I have never looked back, and this gives me every reason to be completely confident with the products I use and prescribe in the salon.
In the short of things, I am just warning you to just be aware of what you are using. Listen to your skin, no matter what the promised results are, as what can agree with one person might not happen to agree with you. Use products to their specific directions and suggestions, and if reactions occur like this, PLEASE discontinue use!
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Issue One
Trust Your Therapist and know YOUR Skin Written By Jaymi Caldwell
Finding a skin care product that is right for you can be extremely hard at times, trust me I know. You have to think of it as an "investment" towards your skins future, as the saying goes, "You only get one skin". Once you find a product that works for you the reward is huge.
Not many people know this but your skin care results account for 40% here in the salon and a whopping 60% at home! Which means it is crucial to follow a strict home care regime otherwise everything we do in the salon is pretty much null and void.
When purchasing a skin care line, you first of all have to trust your therapist. She/he has to know exactly what your concerns are and what YOU are looking for in a product. Obviously they will address any concerns that they may see after completing a skin analysis in your facial, but you need to work together so that a reachable goal is met for you.
Nearly 4/5 clients believe they have a completely different type of skin then clinically they actually have, this is why booking a facial before investing in a skin care line is highly recommendable.
I rarely ever sell retail products to a client if I haven't done a facial on them yet, it is pretty much a no-no in the beauty world. If you ever go into a salon with the intentions of buying for example a moisturiser without having a facial first you will more than likely end up hating the product and it will be another wasted one sitting in your bathroom cupboard.
If you don't have time that day to book a quick facial, make time another day, as a therapist we want you to be 100% happy with what you purchase, and feel confident that the product we have prescribed is correct.
Let me ask you this..how many times have you said you have "oily" skin because you get a shine on your T-Zone (nose, forehead area) by the end of the day? Most people think this and in most cases this is not true. Perfect example of why you should never "self diagnose" your skin type, and leave that up to the professionals. There are many factors in this case that can lead up to an "oily" shine by the end of a long day:
- The moisturiser may not actually be rich enough, leading to an over production of oil in this area.
- This type of client may be using harsh acid based products to try and rid their skin of this excess oil which again leads to the skin over producing oil.
- Foundation may be to heavy.
There are many other factors that can lead to this common concern as well, but to sum up the solution this type of skin requires products that will balance the oil production by adding the required amount of necessary oil, not by stripping the skin of it's own essential oils. But this is the perfect example of why you should never self diagnose.
One of the questions you should ask yourself when trialing a product to see if it is effective for you is:
- Does my skin feel hydrated all day long? (No tightness, itchiness, flaking)
If the answer is yes, then you are on the right path to skin care victory.
Before judging a products effectiveness you need to give it at least a month before completely binning it out of your mind. The skins natural turnover cycle goes for roughly a month (28 days) there fore using a product for 2 weeks and deciding it doesn't work is silly. Stick with it, and ask your therapist if you have any questions regarding products or ingredients and I'm sure they would be more than happy to assist you.
Feel free to ask me any questions about your skin or the products you are using if you don't feel you are on the right skin care track. As a therapist we are here to educate you and teach you about your skin. At the end of the day, it is YOUR skin and you should know everything about it.
Happy Cleansing,
Your Skin Care Guru ;)
Next Issue: The Pros and Cons of Using Acids on your Skin
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